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2023 Author: Devin Ellington | [email protected]. Last modified: 2023-05-21 14:26
Pierpaolo Piccioli closes the winter week of Haute Couture 2018 with a very personal vision on the subject.
Pierpaolo Piccioli he is a master at making couture modern and wearable, but when it comes to keeping its grandeur alive?
At the parade Valentino Haute Couture winter 2018 the first release of the collection immediately answers the question. This is the third season that the designer opens with a look in pants, one kimono dressing gown left open with one underneath blue palazzo suit.
Last spring it was a white tank top with a yellow overcoat, and for winter 2017, a multi-layer with a very non-couture pink tunic and shirt, as Piccioli defined them.
Clear reasoning about what the "woman of today" wears. For next winter there are, as always, its myths, the Middle Ages, Japan, the theater, but it seems everything more emotional. It is as if he had freed them and let them do it, fishing more from instinct and his own memories, than from rationality.
The drawings of the period Edo are huge, the wigs-hats are made of flowers, the taffeta from silk it is in kilos and has volumes oversized that really put the models in trouble when they brush against each other along the catwalk. It sounds like a deja-vu, importable clothes parachuted from another era, anachronistic even for a gala evening.
In reality, that blue jumpsuit has pockets (as well as an American neckline) and the model slips her hands nonchalantly more than once while walking. And like her many others. A simple, spontaneous gesture. But it tells how Piccioli is able to bring together the pathos of brocades with the functionality and relaxation of a Bermuda in a Haute Couture collection.