Dresses that pay homage to the East in a game of folds and draperies
The trend ofOrientalism comes in various forms for autumn-winter 2012/13 and in the more rational version is inspired by the geometries of origami. The art of folding paper is perfectly applied to the creation of clothes when used on rigid and sustained fabrics such as duchesse or mikado, materials that, in addition to supporting the construction, "hold" the play of light and shadows of the folds.
Gareth Pugh as always he proposes a proud and austere woman, sending models on the catwalk that seem priestesses of a dark cult with an intimidating bearing. The menacing effect is further emphasized by the height of the pointed shoulders of the robe manteau in an icy gray and the rationality of the elementary geometry used in perfect symmetry throughout the look.
Haider Ackermann presents origami in a more sinuous version, keeping life as its strong point. The drapery artist limits himself, in this collection, to folding a balanced quantity of fabrics and not the usual crazy lengths. The result is interesting but also wearable clothes.
Contained drama: an encounter between oriental rationality and the passion of two stylists who love expressiveness.
DIANA MARIAN MUREK is the author of the blog intothefashion.com