Rosa: 5 things you don't know
Rosa: 5 things you don't know
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ROSA 2
Until the Second World War, this color was associated with males and, conversely, blue with females. In 1918 The Ladies Home Journal wrote: “The generally accepted rule is pink for the boy and blue for the girl. The reason is that pink is stronger and stronger, while blue is more refined and elegant”. There are no certain sources that establish an actual date on which pink entered the women's wardrobe, but in the late 1940s, women established themselves in society and, to encourage their more active role in the world, they are thought to have adopted this color. An early sign of feminism that would flourish in the 1960s. Alternatively, others think that men's choice of abandoning pink was because of the pink triangle, used during the war, with which the Nazis identified homosexuals. In 1978, Alexander Schauss, director of the American Institute for Bio-Social Research in Tacoma, discovered that by looking at an 18 x 24 inches of paper printed with this color, the heart rate was decreasing, thus causing an immediate sense of well-being and relaxation. Following this discovery, pink was used in some American prisons to induce inmates to maintain a calm behavior, avoiding manifestations of violence. The results were astounding: the Navy Correctional Institution in Washington State, which had painted solitary confinement pink, recorded a major decline in violence; which led the management to keep the color to this day.

2) Rosa Schiaparelli yesterday and today: We are in 1936: the designer Elsa Schiaparelli, in her perfumery atelier in Bois-Colombe, creates a perfume that would later mark her professional career. Her soul as a sophisticated provocateur and subversion of rules was expressed through the name she gave to that perfume: Shocking de Schiaparelli. The packaging of the external container in shocking pink and the bottle, made by Leonor Fini, on which the shape of the bust of Mae West (actress of those times, very famous and assiduous client of the Maison Schiaparelli) was sculpted, represented a new projection of the femininity that was, later, also transferred to his clothing creations. The originality was rewarded, in fact, the perfume was so successful that the pink color, created specifically for the bottle container, became a tint: the Shocking pink color. And even today this color gradation is so defined. Other versions of Shocking are contained in heart-shaped boxes, in cardboard or quilted fabric, in book containers, in elegant gift boxes and in travel leather packs. Today, stylists reproduce real kaleidoscopic effects of shocking pink that pave the way for fluo: how can we forget, for example, the Prada s / s 2011 collection and the Prada Candy, a perfume with an irreverent shocking pink packaging, which emphasizes a kind of lively and chic femininity, a bit like that of Elsa Schiaparelli. On the catwalks of the s / s 2012, Schiaparelli's shocking pink goes wild: Elena Mirò proposes bright colors mixing them with each other, managing, as always, to make his woman stand out thanks to the bursting but refined sensuality; Salvatore Ferragamo, sends the distinct femininity of the diva to the catwalk, giving shocking pink the chromatic primacy: from the mix of shocking with the strong contrasts of the patterns, to the shocking total look, up to the refined harmony with the red color. DKNY, again in s / s 2012, tells about his career woman, using shocking pink for an evening dress, short in front and longer in back, combined with a wide-brimmed hat, finding the right chromatic accord with red.

3) Terminology: From the Latin rose, which refers to the flower of the rose. However, the origin of the name "rose" is uncertain, although the literature is full of statements about its etymology. The derivation of the Greek term Rodhon (hence Rododendron, rose tree) seems to be one of the most certain. The etymology of "rose" is easily identifiable in almost all the idioms of Latin and Germanic origin and over time; the association with the color of the rose itself was inevitable. In classical myths, the rose is counted as a flower of Venus; the five petals correspond to the five points of the star of Venus, Goddess of love.

4) Rosea Roseae: One color, many personalities. Pink is obtained by mixing red and white but its souls are many: from Schiaparelli pink, to bubblegum pink, powder pink, peau d’ange pink, cameo, up to fluo pink. Each of these shades, although born from the same color, has its own independent life. Stylists know this well and use one variant of pink rather than another, because they choose to communicate a precise imagery through the perception of a color. An example is certainly Anna Molinari, a designer who has always been fascinated by the intangibility of pastel colors, who, in the collection of Blumarine, for next autumn / winter 2013, he chooses to give light and liveliness to his eco-furs by making them in fluorescent colors, including pink; while for the collection of Blugirl uses softer variants than fluo pink, such as cameo and bubblegum pink. DSquared2 for F / W 2012-2013 he brings his girly woman to the catwalk with tight-fitting tube pants in bubblegum pink; Raf Simons, for Jil Sander, chooses to dedicate the first part of his latest collection with the brand, to pink, ranging between two of its nuances: from the cameo for symmetrical coats, to nude for lines that rest on the body like a second skin, giving prominence to the silhouette. Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen in the s / s 2012 collection, he brings on stage his fascinating creatures that experience the underwater atmosphere: peau d’ange pink and powder pink outline a femininity of yesteryear, emphasized by the dark touch, so dear to Maison McQueen. The expression of a personal modus vivendi is entrusted to color, so designers often associate pink with known and unknown imaginaries based on their own suggestions. This is the case with the designers of au jour le jour, that, in the s / s 2013 pre-collection, they chose to define the shades "peach pink" and "baby pink", to reveal the naive personality of their women.

5) Pink Chanel: Many historians of costume and fashion have talked about the bitter pair Chanel / Schiaparelli, underlining a hidden rivalry, and perhaps not too much, between the two most influential couturiers in the fashion world. Two subversive women, but in a different way. If, in fact, Elsa Schiaparelli wanted to show her surrealist soul with shocking pink, as opposed to rigid noble environments, Coco Chanel, who wanted to leave behind a past of poverty, sought rigor in sobriety with her tweed suit. Talking about “pink Chanel” is like remembering Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy, who, on November 22, 1963 (the day of the death of her husband, President of the United States of America), wore the pink suit of the Parisian Maison accompanied by the characteristic tambourine hat in the same tone as the suit. It went down in history as a symbol of the murder of her husband and was described as "a famous pink dress that will forever be in the historical consciousness of America". Americans remember him as the representative piece of clothing for the end of his innocence. Jacqueline Kennedy was considered a fashion icon and this dress is her sign of recognition, also because, after the death of President Kennedy, she continued to wear it, stained with blood. Today, with Karl Lagerfeld, at the helm of the Maison, Chanel pink returns to life in more sober shades, tending to powder pink, and in tweed workings with color combinations of different shades of pink.

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