Thomas Wakeford: decent streetwear
Thomas Wakeford: decent streetwear
Thomas Wakeford it is a concentrate of pop references, transfigured into a clear and disturbing design

The portrait in sweatshirt and backpack tells us a lot about Thomas Wakeford's attitude. One who has the air of running away like the plague from sequins, the affectation of poses and belonging to the pack of fashionistas; better, perhaps, an evening at the pub with friends. He studied in Brighton and then ran to London to stop at Central Saint Martins, as is traditional in the biography of many British designers. The brand he founded has only been active for a couple of years, but it already returns the faithful image of a personal aesthetic vision. Here we often look at the road, at the teeming and vital ecosystem of subcultures and then proceed to a meticulous work of discipline and subtraction.

The architecture of the collection autumn-winter 2012 it is so minimal, sporty by vocation, at times almost gothic, but it retains the stimulating variety of precision style references. The imaginary of Bosozoku, the rebel thugs and tamarri who whizzed in the suburbs of an 80s Tokyo and who are evoked in the scraps of shiny leather. The acetate suits, the ones that made us feel ashamed in the hour of physical education at school, here reduced to chromatic panels of geometric taste. And that bonnet, a dark quote that comes straight from the video of the Orbital, with Tilda Swinton in the role of an alien landed on earth and who has completely lost her way. There richness of miscellany however it is brought back to a statute of superior grace, of formal smoothness. Certainly thanks to a clear series of knife-cut dresses, doubled in veil, with a sure graphic impact and a totally contemporary elegance.

Illustrations: Daniela Tieni

Popular by topic