Video: Chanel: the story of the iconic tweed jacket "The Jacket"
2024 Author: Devin Ellington | [email protected]. Last modified: 2024-02-01 08:56
Recognizable at first glance, one of the Maison's "keypieces": the Chanel jacket changes over the years but remains a symbol of feminine elegance
Audacity, avant-garde, freedom: Gabrielle Chanel had an intuition in creating a garment symbol of charm and elegance, "the Jacket", as the iconic jacket of the Maison. A real revolution, starting from the material: the tweed.
In the middle of the 1920s Coco transformed a simple fabric that was once reserved exclusively for men's clothing, in its stylistic code. L' inspiration? The relaxed elegance of a friend Duke of Westminster. And so he transgressed the sartorial codes of his time, choosing fabrics known more for their comfort than for their aesthetics, making them, at the same time, softer and lighter.
Thus the jackets, straight cut, structured and fixed edge to edge, and built according to the idea of give freedom of movement to women, which is extremely revolutionary for the period.
Two fabrics, sewn together with almost invisible stitches, move together without restrictions, with the addition of a detail unpublished, the brass chain, sewn into the hem of the jacket, on the lining. Every aspect is studied with precision, like the buttons, small jewels made of galalith, resin or metal, embellished with a lion's head, a sheath of wheat, or even a camellia (all elements dear to Coco) or marked with the famous double C.
And after Mademoiselle, in 1985 it was Karl Lagerfeld to give a new perspective to iconic jacket which, thanks to its irony, becomes a versatile and "cool" garment, even worn with a a pair of jeans and to a striped sports top. The Tailleur ateliers in rue Cambon face new challenges from year to year: from fabric innovation, to cut, from details, to tweed variations.
Worn and loved by countless international stars, like Romi Schenider yesterday and Katie Holmes, Penelope Cruz and the very young Billie Eilish today, the Chanel jacket is also the protagonist of the collection Ready-to-Wear Spring-Summer 2020, in which Virginie Viard he imagined a feminine elegance, ethereal, but still contemporary, in constant movement, thanks to soft and light tweeds.
The proposed versions are many, like those in color block, two-tone, iridescent, striped or checked, embellished with jewel buttons or finished with a sequin braid combinations? Don't be afraid to dare: the Chanel jacket is also to be reinterpreted with a pair of bermuda or with a flared skirt. Because a true classic not only does not know the passage of time but is always ready to embrace the "new".
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